Ron Emmons          Writer & Photographer
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Chiang Mai - Festival City

9/4/2018

1 Comment

 
Picture
The Poy Sang Long parade leaving the temple

​Life is tough for us folks who live in Chiang Mai, former capital of the Kingdom of a Million Rice Fields (Lan Na). The problem is that there are so many festivals and ceremonies to celebrate that we never get time to rest, and it seems we’re out dancing in the streets almost every day.
Picture
Peacock dancer
Take this week for instance. Traffic was brought to a standstill by the Poy Sang Long parade, which snaked its way around the perimeter of the old city moat. Poy Sang Long is a Shan ordination ceremony, which is accompanied by plenty of singing and dancing.
Picture
Shan musicians in the Poy Sang Long parade
The day before the festival, which lasts three days, young boys aged 7 to 14 have their heads shaved and are dressed in lavish costumes. Make-up is applied to their faces and arrangements of artificial flowers are propped on their heads so they look just like dolls. They are then carried everywhere on the shoulders of attendants, and their feet don’t touch the ground until the festival is over.
Picture
Poy Sang Long participants are carried everywhere on the shoulders of relatives
The reason for this elaborate preparation is that they are emulating Siddharta Gautama, the Buddha, who threw off his princely gowns and donned simple robes to symbolize his rejection of materialism and self-importance. Likewise, on the third day of Poy Sang Long, the young boys wipe off their lipstick and rouge, put on saffron robes and vow to follow Buddhist precepts. Most of the boys only stay in the temple a few days or weeks, but the act of ordaining is a source of great pride for their parents.
Picture
Novice monk learning how to secure his robes
No sooner have we recovered from celebrating Poy Sang Long than it’s time for everyone to dress up in gaudy shirts and shorts ready for Songkran, the traditional Thai New Year, from 13-15 April. It’s often dubbed the ‘water-throwing festival’, and the rules for this one are quite simple: soak as many people as you can in as short a time as possible and be prepared to get soaked in return.
Picture
Getting wet is the main activity during Songkran
Needless to say, there’s a Songkran parade that brings traffic to a standstill again, while the city’s revered Buddha images are paraded through the streets and symbolically washed. 
Picture
Washing Buddha images during the Songkran parade
There are all kinds of other strange activities, such as placing support sticks under the bo tree in temple compounds, which supposedly reinforces people’s beliefs in Buddhist principles. 
Picture
Support sticks for the bo tree
People also build sandcastles topped with colourful flags in temple compounds, which is a way of returning all the grains of sand that stick to the soles of their shoes after temple visits throughout the year.
Picture
Sandcastles in a temple compound
A less religious aspect of this fun-loving festival is that unattached revellers use it as a chance to find a partner. Since everyone has licence to splash each other, it’s an easy way to grab the attention of a sexy chick or a handsome hunk. So when someone sneaks up behind you and dumps a bucket of ice-cold water over your head, be prepared for a life-changing experience, and then give as good as you get. 
Picture
Songkran is also a kind of mating ritual
1 Comment
Richard Hyde
9/4/2018 01:45:54 pm

Ron, thanks for posting this; I really enjoyed watching it. I was unaware of your familiarity with Madagascar where I spent 18 years of my life, only leaving Antananarivo for this fascinating city of Chiang Mai less than three years ago - though I must say I fell in love with the place in 1976, 42 years ago now!
Anyway best wishes and I am looking forward to seeing more of your photos and writing soon, Richard.

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    Ron Emmons 

    is a British writer and photographer based in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

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Ron Emmons
122 Moo 7, San Pisua,
Chiang Mai 50300, Thailand.

Tel/Fax: (66-53) 115150
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Contact Ron
  • Blog
    • Introduction
  • Teaklord
    • Description and buying options
    • News of Teak Lord
    • The Making of a Book Cover
    • Tracking the Teak Lord 1
    • Tracking the Teak Lord 2
    • Review of Teak Lord
    • Teak Talk
  • Publications
    • Books
    • Periodicals >
      • A Culture Blossoms
      • Black, White and Blue
      • Deep in the Delta
      • Strange Town
      • Blissful Bloom
      • The Wonder of Water
      • Striking Signs
      • A Hike up Chiang Dao Mountain
      • Quirky Chiang Mai
      • Trailblazer
      • On the Road to Rio
    • Digital content
  • Portfolio
    • Searching for Shangri-La
    • Travel
    • Biography
    • Nature
    • Buddhism
    • Photography
    • Article List
  • Short Stories
    • Beyond the End of the Road
    • The Green Monkey's Tale
    • The Red Lion's Tale
    • Eruption in Ethiopia
    • First Flight
    • As Dawn Breaks over Choroni
    • The Hungry Eye
    • On Spirit Mountain
  • Biography
    • Ron's CV